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New to the waves? Here鈥檚 your crash course in surfer etiquette.
New to the waves? Here鈥檚 your crash course in surfer etiquette. (Photo: Kelly Cestari/Getty)
The Deep Blue Sea

A Beginner’s Guide to Surfing

Don't be a kook. Here's a crash course in surf etiquette.

Published: 
New to the waves? Here鈥檚 your crash course in surfer etiquette.
(Photo: Kelly Cestari/Getty)

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I won鈥檛 sugarcoat it: most surfers don鈥檛 want you to pick up their sport. Surfers can be territorial, aggressive jerks鈥攅specially to newbies. Though I鈥檓 not excusing that behavior, the instinct is partly for good reason: a beginner听wielding a sharp surfboard they听can鈥檛 control in waves they听don鈥檛 understand puts听everyone in danger. And unlike many other outdoor pursuits, the听resources (waves) are limited. Every wave you catch is one less wave for me.听

But there is a right way to partake as a beginner, all while staying safe and not pissing people off. It involves surfing in the right places for your ability level, choosing the听proper听equipment, being respectful of locals, and knowing the rules of the water. Let鈥檚 start with the essentials.

How to Be the Good Kind of Beginner

  1. To start, surf only at beginner spots. (See Where to Surf,听below.)
  2. Before paddling out, spend at least 30 minutes watching the surf. You鈥檒l want to watch where other surfers paddle out, where the waves are breaking, and the ability level of the people in the water. Are they all very advanced, or are听there beginners as well?听You need听to make sure that the waves are a comfortable size for you鈥攁nd sometimes it takes 30 minutes or more to see how big the bigger sets are. Once you paddle out, sit off to the side and watch for a little longer, noting where people are catching waves.
  3. Be respectful. As with any outdoor pursuit, the locals know the area best and feel a sense of ownership. Be polite, don鈥檛 yell (most lineups are surprisingly quiet), and try not to get in anyone鈥檚 way.
  4. Understand the rules. Generally, one person surfs per wave. The person who is closest to where the wave breaks (also known as 鈥渄eeper鈥) has the right of way. Imagine a wave is coming in听and you and another surfer turn toward shore to catch it. Let鈥檚 say it鈥檚 going to break on the left side of you听and peel toward your right. If the person is to your left, they have the right of way, so听you need to stop paddling and wait until the next wave. If a wave is peeling in both directions, one surfer can ride the wave in each direction. You might hear someone yell 鈥済oing left鈥 or 鈥済oing right鈥 to indicate their direction, and that they have the right of way. If you鈥檙e at a break with one takeoff spot, wait your turn, slowly moving toward it as others take their turn鈥攊t鈥檚 bad etiquette to paddle around them.
  5. Stay out of the way when paddling out. If there is a channel (a deeper area where the waves don鈥檛 break), paddle out there. Never paddle out through the surf or through the lineup if there is another way. This not only keeps you and others safe, but it also saves energy.听If there is no other way out than through the whitewater, it鈥檚 your job to stay out of the way of a surfer riding a wave. If someone is riding a wave coming toward you, paddle in the opposite direction of where the surfer is headed. Lastly, always hold on to your board.

Where to Surf

After etiquette,听the second most important element of an enjoyable surf experience is finding the right waves at the right spots. Ideally, you鈥檒l want to find a spot where waves break slowly over a semi-shallow (waist- to chest-deep) sandy bottom.

When you鈥檙e just beginning, you don鈥檛 need perfectly peeling waves; look for long rows of knee-high whitewater rolling toward the shore. Keep your ego at bay, and don鈥檛 be afraid to go where kids are learning. The key is finding someplace that鈥檚 not too crowded, where you can catch lots of waves and master the art of paddling into waves and popping up.

You can for the best beginner surf spots in your area or see where local surf schools run their lessons. Stay away from famous spots鈥攖hey鈥檙e crowded, not welcoming to beginners, and usually not the best conditions for newbies.

What to Ride

New to the waves? Here鈥檚 your crash course in surfer etiquette.
(Nicol谩s Pina Calvin/Tandem)

When you first start, get yourself on a big board. I鈥檝e seen so many beginners on brand-new, expensive shortboards that are really cool听but lack the volume and length for the rider to catch enough waves to actually improve their skills. There is no shame in starting on a ten-foot soft-top longboard that鈥檚 easy to paddle and stable to ride. By doing this, you鈥檒l get lots of practice learning to read the ocean and popping up with ease. Then, when you鈥檙e more skilled, you can get your first serious听board. Here鈥檚 a brief breakdown of the options:听

Shortboard: , with very little volume, usually with a tri-fin setup, designed for high-performance surfing with faster turns and more speed in larger waves.

Mini Mal, Mini Tanker, Funboard, Fish, Egg, Bonzer: These are all names of boards that are on the shorter side听(smaller than eight feet听and as small as five feet)听but usually have a little more volume to make it easy to paddle into smaller waves, while being more maneuverable than a longboard.

Gun: Generally seven feet and above, designed for big-wave surfing.

Longboards: Generally nine feet听and up, these听either have a (best for nose riding and a classic style of surfing) or tri-fin setup (can be easier to turn and facilitate听a more high-performance style of longboarding).听

Other Important Gear

The beauty of surfing is that, besides a board, you need听very little gear. Here鈥檚 what else to have:

  • A swimsuit听that will stay put, a snug rash guard to keep from sunburning your back or chafing your stomach, and potentially a wetsuit for cold locales.听Evo has a to choosing a wetsuit.听听
  • A leash. Get one that鈥檚 the length of your board, and put it on the back ankle of your riding stance.
  • , which keeps you from slipping. Cover the area where you鈥檒l stand while riding.听

How to Catch a Wave, Stand Up, and Ride It

Surfers and the waves they ride
(Daniel Kuras)

Evan Valiere is a professional surfer and the听owner of on Kauai, where he has taught thousands of beginners to surf. We asked him to break down the basics.

Step 1: At home or on the beach before paddling out, practice popping up by pressing your hands into the ground or board beneath your chest and, in one burst, jumping to your feet. (If your left foot is in front, you have a鈥渞egular鈥 stance. If your right is in front, you鈥檙e 鈥済oofy-footed.鈥) This will get you comfortable with the motion.

Step 2: Paddle out to the lineup, using the tips outlined above听(How to Be the Right Kind of Beginner).听

Step 3: When you see the wave you want to catch, turn around and face the nose of your board toward the听shore, then lay down and begin paddling. Make sure the nose of your board is not underwater or too high in the air鈥攊t should just graze听the surface.

You鈥檒l slowly get some momentum going with the same direction of the wave. It鈥檚 important to conserve a burst of energy for just the right time:听get in position, and line听up the wave using听about 30 to听50 percent of your paddle power. When the wave starts to draw on your tail and lift the back of your board as it rolls under you, kick it up to 80 percent and then save the last few strokes for 100 percent effort.

Step 4: After a few strokes, look back over your shoulder to gauge where the wave is behind you, but continue paddling forward. The crucial part is that you鈥檙e听not too far in front of the wave and not too far outside, but this comes with practice and experience in understanding the waves.

You also need to make sure that the tail of your board is perpendicular to the wave as you paddle toward听shore. The swell does not always come in parallel to听the beach, so looking back and lining up with the wave is key.

Step 5: Look forward, and use your peripherals to sense where the wave is. When you feel a burst of speed and momentum, it鈥檚 the听right time to stand up. Dropping in feels like a mini roller-coaster slope. That鈥檚 when you stop paddling and get ready to stand up.

Step 6: When you pop up, calmly look ahead and fully commit. Try to hop up all in one motion. (You can practice on the beach or at home beforehand.)听Hesitation creates instability. Always keep your eyes up and forward. Never look down at your feet, back at the wave, or at the nose of your board.

Step 7: Keep your knees bent, with slightly more weight in your back foot. Hold your arms out to your sides to balance. And… you鈥檙e surfing.

Valiere鈥檚 additional safety tips:

  • Never hold your board between you and the waves.
  • Always fall flat on the surface of the water like a leaf, rather than dropping straight down. The deeper you drop, the greater听the chance you鈥檒l collide with something under the water.
  • Cover your head when you fall, particularly when you听are separated from your board.
  • Never reel in or hold your board with your leash string or cord.
  • Stretch, hydrate, and warm up before your session, and hydrate and stretch afterward, too.
  • If you experience any听serious pain, especially听in your back or neck, stop immediately.

Training for Surfing

During your first couple of sessions, you鈥檒l be surprised at听how quickly you get tired and how sore you are in new places. 鈥淪urfing is a pretty unique sport鈥攑addling requires muscles that a lot of people wouldn鈥檛 normally use,鈥 says , a professional surfer and certified personal trainer. 鈥淚t requires core control, as well as muscular endurance of the arms and back, plus strength in your legs, all while laying or standing on an unstable surface.鈥

She says that surfing often is the best way to get stronger,听but that interval training and yoga鈥攆or balance and flexibility鈥攁re helpful, too. 鈥淪ince surfing isn鈥檛 a steady-state workout, interval training is an awesome way to get you ready for surfing,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 usually design circuits that alternate between an upper-body exercise and a lower-body exercise and short rest period. It鈥檚 like catching a wave, surfing the wave, and resting while waiting for another wave.鈥

She also recommends these three exercises to strengthen your surfing muscles:

Dumbbell Front-Lateral Raises

What it听does:听Strengthens deltoid muscles for paddling.

How to do it: Start with your feet hip-width apart, and brace your core by drawing your belly button into your spine. Inhale and raise both dumbbells overhead. Keep your shoulder blades down and your back and arms fully extended overhead. Keeping your arms straight,听slowly lower one dumbbell to your side while keeping the other dumbbell overhead鈥攆our听seconds down, one听second up. Alternate sides (to simulate paddling). Exhale on the way down, inhale on the way up. Use light to moderate weight, and aim for three听sets of 15 per arm.

Barbell Romanian Deadlifts

What it does:听Strengthens posterior chain muscles (glutes, hamstrings, back) for generating power while doing turns.

How to do it: Start with your feet hip-width apart. Push your hips back (as if you were trying to touch a wall with your butt), and keep your knees stacked over your ankles. Reach down and grip your barbell about a thumb鈥檚 length in front of your knees. Keep your shoulders down and back and your back flat. Push through the floor with your feet while driving your hips forward to stand upright. Slowly return to the starting point. Use moderate to heavy weight and aim for three听sets of ten.

Core Rotations on a Swiss Ball听

What it does:听Strengthens core in a rotational movement for doing powerful turns and cutbacks

How to do it: Sit upright on a with your feet planted firmly on the ground. Your knees should be at 90 degrees. Draw your belly button into your spine to brace your core. This can be done with or without weight鈥攁 medicine ball works well. Holding onto the weight with both hands, extend your arms out in front, keeping your shoulders down and back. Lean back until your body is at a 45-degree angle. Rotate to one side while keeping your hips level. Alternate sides. Use light to moderate weight, three听sets of ten听per side.听

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