In September, while traveling back from the World Cup in Italy, a young Belgian climber named stopped at Pierrot Beach, in France, and made the first ascent of a very difficult route. Snaking up a partially overhanging wall of limestone, the route traces its way along rough, wheat-hued rock face interspersed with dark gray vertical bands of mineral calcite. For a climber, it requires raw strength and highly technical footwork. Verhoeven had tried the route before, but fog and cold blasts of wind from the north had made it unclimbable. This year, the weather cooperated. After sending the route, Verhoeven gave it a 9a+ grade鈥攁 5.15a in the American system.
If the route is confirmed, 21-year-old Verhoeven will be the to have completed such a demanding first ascent. (Every climbing route that has been sent by someone receives a grade, which is then confirmed or modified by the next person who climbs it.)
Grades like 5.15a describe climbs that are exceedingly difficult. The first widely recognized 5.15 climb, called Realization/Biographie, was done in 2001 by Chris Sharma and has been repeated by only a handful of elite climbers. When Verhoeven sent the route at Pierrot Beach, no one else had ever climbed it before, and only one woman had climbed a 5.15 at all鈥Margo Hayes.
Almost immediately after Verhoeven sent it, a debate broke out whether the route was difficult enough to qualify for the grade. Some people retaliated against the skepticism, saying the only reason people were raising questions about the route鈥檚 grading was because Verhoeven is a woman. 鈥淲hen a woman climbs a first ascent, it鈥檚 always difficult for people to accept what she thinks about it,鈥 Verhoeven told me. 鈥淚 wanted to accept the challenge and go for it. I knew I had done something special.鈥
Verhoeven鈥檚 story should sound familiar to anyone with a passing interest in climbing news. This has been a monster year for firsts by women climbers: In February, Margo Hayes became the first woman to do any route graded a consensus 5.15a, on La Rambla in Spain, and she followed it up in September with a . Last month, Austria鈥檚 Angela Eiter climbed the 5.15b La Planta de Shiva route in Spain, becoming the third person鈥攆emale or male鈥攅ver to send it. While Alex Honnold鈥檚 free solo of El Capitan has dazzled climbing spectators and Adam Ondra鈥檚 send of the set a new benchmark, the top women athletes in climbing have also been breaking records and generally thumbing their noses at perceptions of gender limits.
鈥淚t鈥檚 been an awesome year. I think that the whole breaking the 5.15 barrier was a giant thing,鈥 says Chris Noble, author of . The preponderance of climbing gyms and groundbreaking achievements making women climbers into role models over the past few decades has propelled a new generation into the sport. And as the new generation comes into maturity, they鈥檙e likely to push the bar of what鈥檚 possible even higher. Hayes鈥 mentor and climber Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou told me that the women of this generation are motivating each other and 鈥渂elieving in themselves through the success of the other women who are out there pushing the limits.鈥
Steph Davis attributed the change to more female role models. 鈥淭he generations before had very few,鈥 she wrote in an email, 鈥渁nd as a result, it was harder to push forward鈥攚e all stand on the shoulders of those who come before.鈥
But most聽of this year鈥檚 accomplishments by a woman have聽also been accompanied by a swarm of questions about grading and legitimacy.
That second-guessing has a historical precedent. Climbing traces its roots to the alpinist tradition, which in its early days favored aristocratic gentlemen. When they weren鈥檛 literally encumbered by skirts, women were dismissed simply for being women. In a 1934 article for National Geographic detailing her ascent of the Aiguille du Gr茅pon in the Mont Blan Massif, pioneering alpinist Miriam O鈥橞rien noted that a French alpinist had bewailed her success. The Gr茅pon climb, he said, had as good as disappeared, since no self-respecting man would attempt the ascent after it had been done by a woman.
Then came Lynn Hill鈥檚 historic free ascent of the Nose route in 1993, for which she climbed the looming bow of El Capitan in a harness but didn鈥檛 use ropes to help her up the 2,900-foot ascent. Though it didn鈥檛 make big news at the time, Hill鈥檚 feat proved to be a paradigm changer. Hill鈥攚ho had already cemented her name in the sport by being the first woman to free-climb a 5.12d route (1979), the first woman to redpoint (free-climb after practicing beforehand) a 5.14 (1991), and the first woman to on-sight a 5.13b route (1992)鈥攔eached the top of the Nose in 1993 after four days of climbing. Afterward, she appeared in a cheeky ad campaign for climbing shoes next to a bold proclamation of her route: 鈥淚t goes, boys!鈥
Yet even that triumph didn鈥檛 remain untarnished. For years, doubters have dismissed Hill鈥檚 feat by saying that it was only thanks to her small fingers that she was able to traverse the most difficult pitches. 鈥淭here are certain people who want to be locked into the old paradigm because it suits their comfort somehow, that they are stronger just because they鈥檙e a man,鈥 Hill told me.
Before Margo Hayes became the first woman to climb a 5.15a, another prodigious climber, Ashima Shiraishi, sent a route that she thought was graded 5.15a because of a recently broken hold. That route was subsequently kept at 5.14d or given a slash grade鈥攁lthough some climbers added another pitch that they claim makes the route a solid 5.15a. In the 1980s and 1990s, champion rock climber Bobbi Bensman saw two routes she sent get downgraded鈥攁 boulder problem called Better Eat Your Wheaties that was down-rated to V8 and a 5.14a route in Rifle called Slice of Life that was down-rated to 5.13d. Bensman sees the downgrades as blatant sexism. 鈥淚 mean, women have been battling this shit for years,鈥 she told me.
Since climbing grades are subjective, there has been a lot of discussion about how valuable they are. Some people say they belie the philosophy of climbing altogether or that they鈥檙e a petty obsession of neophytes. Grades can be useful for defining the outer limits of current human capacity, but then again, every climb reflects an intimate synergy between human and rock: The idiosyncrasies of each route will interact differently with the strengths and weaknesses of every climber. Hill told me that her small size did help on some parts of the Nose, but she said that on other parts, it was a challenge. 鈥淚t鈥檚 true that men have an advantage in some ways, but women have advantages in other ways,鈥 she said. 鈥淪o, as long as we all use our tools and whatever we鈥檙e given, then who cares?鈥
Whether or not men will take them seriously, the young, visionary climbers of this generation are poised to keep breaking barriers. Verhoeven, the Belgian climber, is imminently humble about her 5.15a grade and told me that she is eager to hear the opinions of other climbers. But she is also no baseless aggrandizer. Last year, before inclement weather drove her from the route at Pierrot Beach, Verhoeven visited another wall in southeastern France, called Ma Belle Ma Muse. It鈥檚 a short, intense route requiring crimps on narrow handholds. After six days at the wall, she sent the route. Local climbers had suggested a 9a (5.14d) grade for it, but Verhoeven thought that was too high. She gave it an 8c+ (5.14c).
This year, after Verhoeven climbed her first ascent, she named the route , because it was a linkup between a route called Home Sweet Home and another called Sang Neuf. It鈥檚 an apt name. Sang Neuf, in French, means new blood.