In the past month, two big changes have rocked the merino market.聽
First, apparel conglomerate VF Corporation, the parent company of brands including the North Face, Lee, and Timberland, to acquire New Zealand-based Icebreaker Holdings. The purchase鈥攙alued at 鈥攊s particularly notable because VF also owns another wool聽heavyweight: Smartwool, which it bought in 2011.聽
Four days after news of that acquisition broke, that Ibex, a smaller, high-end merino brand, had laid off nearly half of the staff at its home office in Vermont and was headed for bankruptcy. Late聽last week, Ibex announced聽plans to shut down entirely.聽鈥淎s much as Ibex has succeeded and created opportunities for itself, it has also dealt with the headwinds of seasonal volatility, shifts in the retail landscape and an ever-changing consumer,鈥 Ibex CEO Ted聽Manning wrote in .
While these two developments聽aren鈥檛 directly linked, they are indicative of an outdoor industry facing a聽steady attrition of smaller, independent brands. 鈥淚n general, the outdoor business is not nearly as good as it was three years ago,鈥 says聽Matt Powell, outdoor industry analyst for . 鈥淚t鈥檚 a difficult time to be a small brand or a small retailer. The pressures have never been greater.鈥
鈥淭he industry seems to be going in the direction where a lot of more niche brands are being snapped up by larger companies,鈥 he says.聽
In leaner times, small brands can get overextended if聽earnings don't keep pace with expenses. Being part of a bigger company, on the other hand, tends to allow for more flexibility, helping companies weather dips in sales.聽Parent companies聽can聽reduce聽brands鈥 operational costs, allowing them to tap into large-scale manufacturing, transportation, and other resources. That鈥檚 part of why Powell believes the recent acquisition is a good move for Icebreaker, just as it was for its new sister brand six years ago.聽鈥淭he Smartwool acquisition has been a positive for the brand,鈥 he says. 鈥淭his is going to give Icebreaker a bit more capital and access to distribution that they didn鈥檛 have before.鈥
Buyers will notice a shift in one or both brands at some point after the acquisition is complete early next year.
Consumers may benefit from this boost in efficiency. Increasing sales volume in the U.S., Asia, and Eastern Europe could lead to cheaper Icebreaker goods, company chairman Rob Fyfe . 鈥淲e could double the size of our business in the next five years,鈥 he told the reporter. 鈥淭hat would have a material impact on unit prices.鈥
Lower price tags aren't the only change buyers should expect. Once competitors, Smartwool and Icebreaker聽must now reposition themselves as counterparts. What will that mean for their brand identities? A representative from VF Corporation says it鈥檚 too soon to say, but one thing is likely: consumers聽will notice a shift in one or both brands at some point after the acquisition is complete early next year. The merino wool market is still a relatively small segment of the overall outdoor industry, so VF will want to ensure the two brands appeal to distinct customer bases. 鈥淵ou don鈥檛 want them competing with each other,鈥 Powell says. 鈥淐learly they will draw a distinction.鈥
That brand differentiation could take shape in a number of ways. Perhaps one focuses on technical apparel while the other becomes more of a lifestyle brand. Or maybe Smartwool reverts back to its beginnings as primarily a sock supplier. Or the brands might delineate based on price. 鈥淧otentially, you could see one being more focused on mid-market and one on up-market,鈥 Powell says. 鈥淰F has tremendous strength in mid-market categories, like Lee.鈥
The bottom line? There are some wolves circling the merino industry, with some brands herding together, and another getting picked off. We'll see if coming together helps them in 2018.聽