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Garrett Madison and Ben Jones confirmed that the Hillary Step has disappered, pictured here in 2012
(Photo: Courtesy of Garrett Madison)
Garrett Madison and Ben Jones confirmed that the Hillary Step has disappered, pictured here in 2012
Garrett Madison and Ben Jones confirmed that the Hillary Step has disappered, pictured here in 2012 (Photo: Courtesy of Garrett Madison)

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American Climbers Confirm the Hillary Step Is Gone

Ascending Everest may be easier now that one of the most difficult features en route to the summit has crumbled, veteran mountaineers say.

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American climbers and , both of whom summited Everest in the final weeks of May, tell 国产吃瓜黑料 that the Hillary Step has been significantly altered. Their revelations bring clarity to a debate that left the mountaineering world wondering whether or not Everest鈥檚 most iconic feature still existe诲.听

The Hillary Step, which is located at an elevation of 28,839 feet, was a near-vertical rock outcropping 200 feet below Everest鈥檚 summit. It has long been one of the most foreboding obstacles on the mountain鈥檚 South Col route. Named after Sir Edmund Hillary, who in 1953 used the 39-foot feature to , the step was among the most challenging and notorious features on the mountain.

In its previous form, the step was comprised of four large boulders and several smaller rocks stacked on top of each other. But both Madison and Jones tell 国产吃瓜黑料 that the main boulder鈥攖he largest and highest rock in the feature鈥攊s gone. Both join other observers in speculating that the boulder was shaken loose during the massive earthquake that hit the region in 2015.

The consensus is that the Hillary Step is a shell of its former self.

鈥淭he boulder formally know as the Hillary Step is gone,鈥 Madison says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 pretty obvious that the boulder fell off and has been replaced by snow. You can see some of the rocks below it that were there before, but the gigantic boulder is missing now.鈥

Madison, who completed his eighth summit of Everest on May 23, sent 国产吃瓜黑料 before and after photos of the Hillary Step鈥攐ne image from 2011 and another from 2017鈥攖hat show where the boulder is missing. , an experienced guide who has summited Everest 15 times (more than any non-Sherpa climber), reviewed the images at 国产吃瓜黑料鈥檚 request. 鈥淭he photos show pretty conclusively that a large mass of rock is missing. I鈥檇 say that [main] boulder is absolutely gone,鈥 he says. Hahn also noted that there are 鈥渟cars鈥 of lighter rock exposed that didn鈥檛 exist before, but he hopes to examine higher resolution photos in the future.

鈥淭he main boulder that is the actual step is completely gone. There is no question in my mind that it is gone,鈥 says Jones, a guide for who made his fourth summit of Everest on May 27.

Speculation regarding the Hillary Step鈥檚 condition began a year ago, when climbers summited Everest for the first time since the earthquake. But there was so much snow near the summit in 2016 that mountaineers couldn鈥檛 determine whether the step was gone or just buried. The debate ignited in mid-May, when British mountaineer with a caption that read, in part, 鈥淭he Hillary Step is no more.鈥 However, soon after his post, Nepalese officials disputed Mosedale鈥檚 claim, telling CNN it was a 鈥渇alse rumor.鈥

Left: The Hillary Step in 2017. Right: The Hillary Step in 2011.
Left: The Hillary Step in 2017. Right: The Hillary Step in 2011. (Garrett Madison)

The debate left media outlets and climbers confused, not knowing what, if anything, remained of the feature. But now that mountaineers like Madison and Jones have returned from the mountain, the consensus is that the Hillary Step is a shell of its former self. 鈥淣ow, instead of the Hillary Step, you have some snow steps on a 45-degree angle,鈥 Madison says. 鈥淎nd it actually makes the climbing much easier because instead of ascending this pure vertical rock face, it鈥檚 just walking up some snow steps with a fixed line.鈥

When weather windows make it possible to summit, droves of climbers head up the South Col at once, and the Hillary Step was known for creating a bottleneck anytime there was heavy traffic鈥攁 relatively common occurrence in recent years. Hahn, for instance, says that he remembers once standing in line for an hour, waiting for over 100 people to come off the summit before he could climb the step. Madison predicts that, because the main boulder fell, traffic congestion might be more easily mitigated. 鈥淚t鈥檚 actually safer now because you can essentially walk around people and two way traffic is easier.鈥

Whether or not the section will be easier to climb is still up for debate. Jones noted that on May 27 his team also climbed snow steps where the main boulder used to be, but 鈥渢here are some definite loose boulders and bigger rocks in that area that could pose a little bit of a danger,鈥 especially in a dryer climbing season, he says.

Hahn also is skeptical about whether the section will be easier. 鈥淓ven if the rocks fell away, you鈥檙e still going to have an elevation change there in the ridge,鈥 he says. 鈥淵ou鈥檒l always have a step in the ridge, but maybe not the same obstacles as before.鈥 In Hahn鈥檚 mind, the real loss is the 鈥渕onument鈥 to the climbers who first summited Everest. 鈥淚t was an extremely great tribute to Tenzing and Hillary,鈥 he says. 鈥淚 couldn鈥檛 climb it without thinking of them.鈥

Lead Photo: Courtesy of Garrett Madison