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Alex Honnold takes a fall climbing on the Greek Islands.
Alex Honnold takes a fall climbing on the Greek Islands.

Why Do We Love Extreme Sports?

Many assume extreme-sports athletes are, at best, irresponsible and, at worst, suicidal. New psychology research tries to unpack their true motivations.

Published: 
Alex Honnold takes a fall climbing on the Greek Islands.

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There鈥檚 a longstanding assumption behind most of the research on extreme athletes: 鈥淐learly, something's wrong with them.鈥澨

That鈥檚 what Eric Brymer, a researcher at Leeds Beckett in the UK, has seen for most of his career. Why else would anyone willingly participate in an activity that is quite literally defined by its high levels of perceived risk? What could motivate that kind of behavior? Extreme athletes, the academic literature suggested, are 鈥渁drenaline junkies鈥 with 鈥渄eath wishes,鈥 Brymer says. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e crazy people, not like normal people.鈥

Motivation is a curious thing, especially when it comes to pastimes much of society thinks are dangerous. George Mallory鈥檚 response to that tired question鈥Why climb Everest?鈥攊s as telling as it is inscrutable. Many of us don鈥檛 have a better听answer for why we want to conquer those rapids or nail that slab or bag that peak听than Mallory鈥檚 鈥淏ecause it鈥檚 there.鈥 For the 鈥渘ormal people鈥 who have no interest in paddling down waterfalls, it鈥檚 easy to see how the 鈥渄eath wish鈥 narrative took hold.

“It鈥檚 more than the quick hit of adrenaline. It鈥檚 personal.”

Brymer was finishing his masters in sports psychology from the University of Liverpool 10 years ago and working at an adventure camp when he realized this view dominated the field. 鈥淚 knew quite a lot of people participating in high levels of extreme sport鈥攎ost people were very careful and took years to develop their skills,鈥 he says. 鈥淚 knew people who were highly, highly skilled at white water, but they stuck to Class IV.鈥 Of all the mountain climbers and free divers and base jumpers he knew, he didn鈥檛 see many recklessly tempting fate. 鈥淭here are many easier ways to die,鈥 he says. 鈥淲hy would you do these things if you were trying to die?鈥

Brymer has since听. He鈥檚 an expert in the field and his new book, , debunks many of the clich茅s behind what makes adventure athletes tick. Extreme athletes don鈥檛 get off on taking risks or that rush of adrenaline, he says. From interviews with dozens of athletes, Brymer and his co-author Robert Schweitzer discovered that, instead, .听鈥淭here鈥檚 an ineffable aspect people find very difficult to describe,鈥 Brymer says, 鈥渁 feeling of coming home.鈥澨

This 鈥渋neffable鈥 nature may explain why it鈥檚 been so hard for researchers to nail down why we participate in so-called risky sports. Psychologists developed a 鈥渟ensation-seeking scale鈥 in the early 1970s: ever since it鈥檚 been easier for researchers to concentrate on the thrill-seeking aspect of extreme sports. Researchers have dived into the genetics of extreme athletes, examining whether exposure to high levels testosterone in utero promotes risk-taking or if we鈥檙e born with an 鈥渁dventure鈥 genotype. But searching for what differentiates extreme athletes from 鈥渘ormal folks鈥 ignores a key trend line: in the last thirty years, adventure and extreme sports have become more and more popular. While participation in traditional team sports declines, climbing and surfing and kayaking have all seen record growth.

“Once upon a time this used to be called being alive鈥攍iving without know what was going to happen next.”

Still, motive has been little studied, says Emma Barrett, a researcher at Lancaster Univeristy and the author of . 鈥淭here is a lot of stuff out there about sensation-seeking and risk-taking and it鈥檚 all interesting stuff, but motivation is such a complex and multifaceted thing.鈥 That鈥檚 what makes Brymer鈥檚 research 鈥渢errific鈥 and 鈥渦nique,鈥 Barrett says.听

So what drives us to keep doing these sports, despite the inherent risks? Brymers work鈥攁nd done by John Kerr out of the University of British Columbia and Susan Mackenzie from the University of Idaho鈥攕uggests one of the most powerful motivators is something any athlete knows: these sports are hard and much of the satisfaction comes from the grind, and the satisfaction that comes from nailing that backside cutback on the wave after a hundred failed tries.听

Another interesting response that researchers heard from athletes again and again: they don鈥檛 consider their 鈥渆xtreme鈥 sports risky. Wingsuit fliers and pro climbers spend a huge amount of time trying to minimize risks. They 鈥渓earn everything possible about the sport; learn about weather conditions, learn about wind, learn about what wind does in and around buildings and structures and cliffs,听so you know what you can do and what you can鈥檛 do,鈥 one BASE jumper told Brymer. Although they鈥檙e under no illusions about the risks鈥斺淚magine if every time you missed a basket, somebody would shoot you in the head,鈥 one extreme skier said鈥攖hey believe they have done all they can to mitigate them through hard work and focus.听

Of course, the risk is real. The parade of obituaries for pro climbersand top-level BASE jumpers听shows this with frightening frequency. 听And, Barrett says, some people are likely motivated by that dopamine rush or the thrill of risk.听

For Alex Honnold, perhaps the most impressive, unflappable solo climber to ever live, it depends on how you define risk. 鈥淚f risk is defined as anything with an uncertain outcome, I鈥檓 certainly taking risks, yeah,鈥 he says, but 鈥淚 don鈥檛 think that I have a death wish. I鈥檓 not trying to go out and kill myself.鈥

So, why does Honnold do it? 鈥淚t鈥檚 hard to define鈥 he says. 鈥淭en years ago I鈥檇 just say because it鈥檚 rad or badass to sound like a hero, but now I can give a slightly subtler interpretation. I typically define it as deep satisfaction. A sense of well-being. I鈥檓 searching more for that feeling of having done something well and being deeply content鈥攊t鈥檚 more than the quick hit of adrenaline. It鈥檚 personal.鈥

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